Makeup Masterclasses are such a good, hands on way for improving your make up application skills and picking up plenty of makeup tips. Especially when they are being held by experts such as Dior Backstage Make Up Artist, Jamie Coombes.
Don’t get me wrong, the likes of YouTube and Instagram are great sources of guidance and inspiration but there is something about being the actual presence of those that do it daily basis and learning from them.
Makeup is an art form which means that there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way to do it. That’s the joy of art, its subjective. Which is why no matter how many masterclasses you go to, the majority of the time you will leave feeling more inspired and more knowledgeable than when you arrived.
If you enjoyed the last makeup tips blog, then you will definitely enjoy this one.
Jamie Coombes, Makeup Artist
Jamie begins his masterclass at Intu Trafford, Selfridges with a little introduction and very quickly, excites me. ‘
Makeup is an extension of you. It is about enhancing not masking.’Jamie Coombes, Dior Backstage Makeup Artist
How refreshing! Yes; this came from the mouth of Jamie Coombes himself, a Dior Backstage makeup artist. Who has worked plenty of red carpets and film festivals!
Red Carpet makeup always looks extremely glamorous and Jamie is about to show us how we can create such glam looks without feeling like we are ‘caked’ in makeup. I am paying full attention.
The Makeup Masterclass
‘Natural’, ‘Fuller’, ‘Subtle’, Build’ ‘Diffuse’ – These are the buzzwords of this makeup masterclass. Jamie repeats these on a number of occasions and from the moment he begins applying the makeup it is evident why.
Literally, from the second Jamie starts I am blown away by how little product he applies and how subtly he does so but achieves such huge results.
Jamie is building from a bare face, to a ‘barely there’ makeup look, to a full red carpet glam look. So, we can see what goes into each stage and honestly, the way he does it and the results he achieves are mind blowing.
The Makeup Tips and Tricks
- Skincare is a part of makeup. The way you apply skincare will have a direct effect on how your makeup performs. Jamie advises that when doing make up for an event it is better to pat skincare products onto the skin as oppose to massaging them in. Sometimes the process of massaging can encourage the release of toxins from our skin and produce extra oils which is not ideal before makeup application. Using the patting motion will still work the product into the skin but will also increase blood flow which will in turn, give a more refreshed looking, plump base to work from.
- Apply a very light dusting of fixing powder prior to applying any foundation or primer. This will secure in place all of skincare preparation work and prevent foundation from sliding around your face leaving those awful brush marks. The foundation instantly grips and it helps to smooth out any imperfections.
- Jamie then goes straight in with the Dior Backstage Foundation which is water based, heatproof and buildable – so it is extremely wearable and a little really does go a long way. When applying foundation Jamie starts from under the eye and blends down, including buffing down the neckline. As you are probably all already aware, there are a million and one ways to apply foundation but a good rule of thumb Jamie gives is for a fuller coverage, use a denser brush.
- Concealer under the eye is not a necessity. I’m going to repeat that one again because there are a lot of people who need to hear it – concealer under the eye is not a necessity. The less product in the delicate under eye area, the fresher it looks. If there are any areas which are particularly blue or need a little bit of brightening, i.e. in the tear ducts, apply a little bit of highlighter.
- Remember above I mentioned no rules with makeup; Jamie takes the Glow primer and actually applies it on top of foundation. He places it on the high points of the face where he wants the light to hit. The Dior Backstage Glow Primer is so versatile though, it can be applied under foundation, mixed in with foundation, on top of foundation or anywhere on the body to give that extra light hit.
- OK this is the one that blew my mind the most. The one that reminded me that make up is art and even though there are a couple of ‘rules’, rules are made to be broken.
Jamie takes the Dior Backstage Lip Palette, swipes a blusher brush across the whole palette then proceeds to gently, but quickly, brush across the cheeks and even a little flush across the eyes. The results are incredible. It really brings the face to life and is the perfect way to do a ‘no makeup, makeup look’. You could just add a touch of mascara and a brush of the palette to the lips and finish the look here. (of course we don’t today – we are going full red carpet glam) but wow. If I hadn’t seen a professional makeup artist do this, I would never have dreamed of trying it myself for fear of feeling like a 2 year with her first makeup set again.
- Brows. What’s a red-carpet makeup look without brows. Jamie works backwards from the outer corner of the brow and against the brow hair. This is because this lifts the hair and enhances that oh so coveted feathered look. Then brush the hairs back into place to keep them looking tidy.
- Okay, Eye shadow application. I’m not even sure you are all ready for this one. This blew.my.mind and I have since used this technique on multiple occasions for both, day and night events. Jamie calls this his 1,2,3 trick.
Taking the Dior Backstage Eye Palette and using one finger, tap the primer all over the lid.
Using three fingers, apply a light, a medium and a darker shade on each finger. Using your fingers; apply the medium shade to the inner corner of your eye, the lighter shade in the middle and the darker shade to the outside. Don’t worry if it looks a bit messy, this is your base.
Then take a brush and holding it at the end, gently swirl to disperse the colour into the crease of the eye. Using the same motion, lightly blend any harsher lines together. Holding the brush at the base makes the motions to heavy and it ends up acting like more of a marker pen. Holding at the end keeps movements light and free.
That is the base done. If you want a more dramatic look just keep going back in and repeating until you are happy with the depth and contrast. If you desire more of a wing effect, gently use the brush to slightly pull the colour from the lid.
The reason the medium colour is applied to the inner corner is to balance out the darker shade on the end. Sometimes, when too light of a shade is applied to the inner corner and a dark shade to the outer, it can have the opposite effect and instead of pulling out the eye and elongating, it creates a deep hooded effect.
To create a more smouldering look, work a soft, blended, black line across the lash line.
- As always with lashes, curlers are key. Springy curlers are best to allow teasing of the lashes.
- Contouring as you’ve never seen it done before. Jamie uses a large brush and pats the product onto the desired area. Again, working to achieve a natural, diffused look and avoiding that garish grey finish.
Taking a shimmery bronze colour, this is then applied just underneath the shelf of the cheek. Doing this adds a little more depth and prevents a ‘flat’ look.
As with the eyes, build and layer as you go until you have your desired look.
- Before applying anything to the lips, they need some prep work too. Dior’s sugar scrub is a great way to gently moisturise and exfoliate. Creating the perfect base for colour.
- Jamie uses Dior Rouge and again, dabs the colour onto the lips. This increases blood flow to the lip. Which results in a fuller look. The rouge tone of the lipstick then blends seamlessly with the natural tones of the lip. As oppose to creating stark, harsh contrast. Then taking the Glitz palette he gently pats onto the lip before sealing in with Dior Addict Lip Maximiser. Again, he dabs this onto the lip to create a ‘wet’ look without it being too ‘glossy’
The Finished Look
Et voila. Red Carpet Glam using the simplest, yet sophisticated of techniques. Hardly any brushes used and not need for the makeup bag of a professional makeup artist. Incredible.
So, it just goes to show, even though the majority of us love a heavy, full glam look sometimes, for days where we want something a bit light or a bit classier it is easily achievable. Whether it’s for a natural daytime look or red carpet glam – we can all do it!